Agıos Nıkolaos, Crete

Locals say Lake Voulismeni has no bottom - that somewhere beneath its still green water, a channel runs all the way to the volcano under Santorini. Nobody has proved it, and nobody here seems keen to.

The town trades in that surface: blue-eye talismans in shop windows, day boats to Spinalonga's fortress walls, a harbor postcard pretty enough to need no caption. Climb the stairways behind the marina, though, and an older town appears, built by Venetian, then Ottoman, then Greek hands from salt pans and the buried port of Lato pros Kamara.

VoiceMap's self-guided audio tours go past the ferry queue for Spinalonga to explain what the island actually held - a leper colony, sealed off until 1957 - and up into Kritsa, where Kritsotopoula disguised herself as a man to fight the Ottomans. Mr. Routaki, who has called Crete home for years, narrates the drive south to Ierapetra too, past olive presses and raki stills, both seas visible from one clifftop.

Plug in your earbuds and let the lake keep its secrets. You will have found a few of your own by the time you reach Voulisma Beach.