Kritsa, in the hills above Agios Nikolaos, is known for rugs and needlework. Handmade goods turn up at every corner, and a statue of a girl stitching stands among the shops. From the road, some see a scorpion in the village’s shape: two old settlements form the jaws, and a once separate third village the body.

Its heroine is Rodanthi, known as Kritsotopoula, “Child of Kritsa”. Abducted by an Ottoman, she seized his knife, killed him and joined the resistance dressed as a man. Shot in a battle in 1823, she was found out only when comrades tore open her shirt to dress the wound.

VoiceMap’s self-guided audio tours stop at the memorial where she fell, step inside Panagia i Kera to see its 13th-century frescoes, and trace how Kritsa’s people helped resettle Agios Nikolaos’s ruined Mandraki quarter.