Shah-i-Zinda means “living king”, an odd name for a street of tombs. Visitors climb 36 steps to reach it, then duck through doorways so low that bowing is compulsory.

Much of the avenue belongs to Timur’s family. His sisters, Shirinbeki and Kutlug Turkon, have mausoleums here, and one tomb reportedly holds his nanny and her daughter. Timur rebuilt the site after the Mongol period left it in ruins, and a placard inside one mausoleum quotes him: “If you have doubts in our might and power, look at our monuments.” Beside the glittering blue, green and yellow tilework, the plain white graves stand out, piled with pilgrims’ banknotes.

Two VoiceMap tours walk the avenue and name who lies behind each door. They also explain why Ulugbek signed the entrance portal in his son’s name, and which tilework is restored and which is original.