The Market of San Miguel has occupied this corner of Madrid since 1916, though the story starts earlier and bloodier. A church stood here until Joseph Bonaparte had it demolished in 1809, leaving an open-air market in its place. A landlocked city with a fish stall where a church used to be: Madrid has always had a talent for making do.

The iron and glass building is the only surviving example in Madrid of so-called railway architecture, built in two careful phases so trade never had to stop. By the late twentieth century, supermarkets had nearly finished it off. In 2009, ninety-three years after it opened, the market reinvented itself as a gastronomic destination.

VoiceMap's self-guided audio tours use the Market as a starting point for Madrid's tapas culture, tracing the tradition to a royal decree by Alfonso X, who ruled that Spanish inns could only serve wine alongside food.