Portugal's first two kings, Dom Afonso Henriques and his son Dom Sancho I, lie buried in Santa Cruz Church, their sculpted tombs flanking the altar. They rest here because Coimbra, not Lisbon, was Portugal's first capital, and this was where they lived and ruled.

Built in the twelfth century, the church wears an elaborate sixteenth-century portico carved from Ançã limestone so soft that acid rain, pigeons and time have worn it ragged. Inside, tiles trace Saint Augustine's life and an Iberian Baroque organ of more than three thousand pipes still sounds on special occasions.

VoiceMap's self-guided audio tours use Santa Cruz to anchor Coimbra's brief reign as Portugal's capital, tracing the friendship between the church's friars and the neighbouring Jewish Quarter, whose residents are said to have descended to honour Afonso Henriques at his funeral.