Old Yerevan: From the Alleys of Kond to the Treasures of Vernissage
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About the Tour
About the Tour
If you step off Yerevan’s bustling avenues, you can journey to a place where time seems to have stood still in the 1600s.
This self-guided walk will lead you from the winding alleys of Kond – Yerevan’s oldest quarter – and through Amiryan Street and Republic Square to Vernissage, a vibrant open-air flea market.
The tour starts at St. John the Baptist Church (St. Hovhannes Mkrtich), Kond’s oldest structure and the ancestral chapel of the Melik-Aghamalyan princes who ruled this district. You’ll walk along narrow streets where daily life continues behind stone walls, peering into courtyards and noticing details that are easy to miss. I’ll tell you how Armenian, Persian, and Soviet architectural traditions have intertwined in Yerevan, and why this city is known as the “Pink City.”
Along the way, I’ll share stories about merchants and princes, architects, and ordinary people who shaped the character of this city. You’ll see historic houses, a church, and a former mosque, before emerging into the grand Republic Square with its singing fountains. You’ll walk through Khachkar Park where intricate “cross-stones’ tell stories of faith, and end our walk at Vernissage, where Armenian crafts come to life in the hands of skilled artisans.
On this 120-minute tour, you’ll have a chance to:
*See the reborn Dvin Hotel, a 1979 Soviet modernist landmark with grand bas-reliefs overlooking Kond from the hilltop
*Hear how Mayor Isaac Melik-Aghamalyan defeated malaria, drained marshes, and brought spring water to the disease-ridden city
*Discover the tragic fate of Kond’s last aristocrat, Sashakh Aghamalyan, with only a parrot screaming “Give me bread, Sasha!”
*See where St. Gregory Church became the “Godless” cinema before being razed
*Admire the Hripsime Women’s Gymnasium, where 500 girls once studied four languages, dance, and needlework
*Learn about the 17th-century underground city discovered beneath Republic Square, soon opening as an open-air museum
*Stand before Yerevan’s main clock, arriving miraculously during WWII and stopping for only two hours in 80 years
*Haggle with third-generation Vernissage artisans selling hand-carved duduks, obsidian jewelry, and ceramic pomegranates
This journey reveals how Yerevan’s oldest neighborhood survived Persian khans, Soviet bulldozers, and earthquakes to exist today as the city’s unpolished, beating heart. You’ll follow this route at a relaxed pace, without any rush, so that you don’t just see Yerevan, but feel it – warm, vibrant, and truly authentic.
Tour Producer
Tour Producer
Anna Sargsyan
Hello! My name is Anna, and I am your guide.
I have been working in tourism since 2001, but above all, I am an Armenian woman—deeply and devotedly in love with my homeland. I created this audio guide to share a piece of my soul with you: my love for these ancient stones, my admiration for the resilient spirit of our people, and those magical moments when Mount Ararat suddenly emerges through the morning mist.
I invite you to see Armenia through my eyes. Feel the living pulse of a thousand-year history, experience our genuine hospitality, and discover the hidden beauties that reveal themselves only to those who truly listen. Allow me to be your personal companion on this journey.
Welcome to the real Armenia! Welcome to Hayastan!
Preview Location
Preview Location
Location 7
The Tapabashi Mosque: A Ghostly Temple in the Heart of Kond
This building is a true ghost. Commissioned in 1687 by Haji Novruz Alibek with funds from the Persian Khan Abbas Kuli, it remains one of the oldest structures in the... Read More
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Major Landmarks
Major Landmarks
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Saint John the Baptist Church
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Kond
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Yerevan State Theatre and Film Institute
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Romanos Melikyan Musical State College
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Republic Square
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Vernissage Market
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Seven Visions Hotels
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Khachkar Park
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Tapabashi Mosque
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Hripsime School for Girls
Getting There
Getting There
Route Overview
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Start location3 Paronyan poxoc, Yerevan, Armenia
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Total distance3km
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Final location1, 3 Buzand St, Yerevan 0010, Armenia
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Distance back to start location1km
Directions to Starting Point
The tour begins at the Saint John the Baptist Church (Surb Hovhannes) in the Kond district.
Getting there:
The easiest way to reach the starting point is by taking a taxi to the church entrance or a short walk from the "Marshal Baghramyan" metro station. If you are coming from the city center (Saryan Street), it’s a scenic uphill walk.
How to know you’re in the right place:
Look for the distinctive red tuff facade of the church and its bell tower. To start the tour, stand near the main entrance gates of the church.
Pro-tips for your visit:
Operating Hours: The church is generally open from 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM (sometimes until 8:00 PM).
The Route: You will be passing through the historic Kond district, including the Old Courtyard and the Tapabashi Mosque site (open 9:00 AM – 11:00 PM), and the cozy Kond 253 Tea House, which stays open until midnight.
Timing: The tour ends at the Vernissage open-air market. To see the market at its best, try to take this tour on a weekend when it stays open until 8:00 PM. On weekdays, the market starts winding down around 6:00 PM.
Make sure your battery is charged, put on your headphones, and press Start when you're ready to explore the hidden soul of Yerevan.
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Tips
Tips
Places to stop along the way
This route is full of hidden corners where you can pause and soak in the atmosphere. Here are the best spots located right along your path:
In the Heart of Kond:
Kond 253 Tea House: A must-stop. This historic building is the soul of the district. It’s the perfect place to pause your tour, grab a tea or a cold drink, and chat with the locals in a setting that feels like a film set from the past century.
The Old Courtyard (Kond Art Gallery area): As you wander through the labyrinth, look out for local artists who sometimes display their work right on the walls of their houses. It’s a great place to stop for photos and a chat.
Mid-way & Near the Exit:
Street Food & Small Bakeries: As you move toward the edge of Kond, you’ll find tiny, family-run bakeries. Stop here for a fresh Gata (Armenian sweet pastry) or hot Lamasjo—the ultimate fuel for your walk.
The Area near Saint John the Baptist Church: Before you start or just as you begin, the quiet benches in the church courtyard offer a moment of peace and a great view of the district you’re about to explore.
At the Vernissage:
Local Coffee Carts: Once you reach the Vernissage, you don't need to go far for a break. Look for the small, mobile coffee stations right among the souvenir stalls. They serve authentic Armenian coffee, perfect for sipping while you browse the silver, carpets, and handmade crafts.
Best time of day
The ideal time to start this tour is between 10:00 AM and 3:00 PM. Why this window?
The Kond Experience: Starting in the late morning ensures that the Saint John the Baptist Church (9:00 AM – 6:00 PM) is open for a quiet visit before you dive into the labyrinth of Kond’s streets.
A Mid-way Break: By the time you reach the heart of the district, the Kond 253 Tea House and the Old Courtyard (both opening at 9:00 AM) will be in full swing, offering the perfect atmosphere for a quick coffee or tea.
The Grand Finale: You want to arrive at the Vernissage market while it’s at its most vibrant. On weekends, it’s a bustling festival of crafts until 8:00 PM, but on weekdays, many vendors begin packing up by 5:00 PM or 6:00 PM.
Seasonal & Weather Tips:
Year-round: This tour is beautiful in any season. However, Yerevan summers can be very hot (often exceeding 35°C). If you’re visiting in July or August, we strongly recommend starting as early as 9:00 AM or waiting until 5:00 PM to avoid the midday heat, as some parts of the walk offer little shade.
Winter: In winter, aim to finish before sunset (around 5:30 PM) to fully appreciate the textures of the black gold
architecture and the hidden details of the Kond alleyways.
Safety & Crowds:
Kond is a very safe and welcoming neighborhood, though the terrain can be uneven. Wear comfortable walking shoes. Crowds are rarely an issue in the residential areas, but the Vernissage will be much busier on Saturdays and Sundays—which is exactly when you’ll find the best treasures!
Precautions
Precautions & What to Bring
Kond is a living history book, and its narrow, winding alleys are full of character—but they also require a bit of preparation.
Safety & Terrain:
Sturdy Footwear is a Must: You will be navigating uneven cobblestones, narrow passages, and old stone staircases. Please wear comfortable walking shoes with good grip. Avoid flip-flops or high heels.
A Living Neighborhood: Remember that Kond is a residential area. While the locals are incredibly hospitable, please be respectful of their privacy as you pass through the shared courtyards and doorways.
Watch Your Step: Some alleyways can be dimly lit if you stay past sunset, and the transitions between old buildings may have unexpected steps.
What to Bring:
Stay Hydrated: Yerevan can get very warm, especially in the summer. Bring a bottle of water with you. You’ll also find several pulpulaks
(traditional Armenian water fountains) along the way where you can refill for free with clean, cold mountain water.
Sun Protection: If you are walking between May and September, sunblock and a hat are essential, as parts of the route are quite exposed.
Dress Code for the Church: To enter the Saint John the Baptist Church (Surb Hovhannes), it is respectful for women to cover their heads with a scarf and for everyone to have their shoulders and knees covered.
Cash for the Markets: While many cafes take cards, the artisans at Vernissage and the small shops in Kond often prefer cash (Armenian Dram).
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