Pacific to Caribbean: A Panama Driving Tour Through North Veraguas
About the Tour
Road trip on Route 33, through one of the last wild places in the Americas. Veraguas rises to the north from the Pacific lowlands up over the cloud wrapped continental divide, before dropping to the Caribbean. On this driving tour, you'll follow the Santa Maria River passing through small villages of both latino and indigenous people. You'll also hear how two national parks, created to protect vital watersheds and virgin rainforests, shape life for the Latino and indigenous communities along Route 33. At the end, you will find yourself on a remote Caribbean beach in the village of Calovebora.
The tour starts at the Boulevard Shopping Center in Santiago and climbs through the colonial village of San Francisco, with its historical 1620s church, before reaching Santa Fe, a coffee-growing town founded in the 1500s. Along the way, you'll stop at waterfalls, river swimming holes, and roadside bakeries, while learning how pine reforestation and cattle ranching have reshaped these highlands.
Beyond Santa Fe, the route enters Santa Fe National Park, one of the best-preserved rainforests in the Americas, where jaguars roam and centuries-old petroglyphs sit beside mountain rivers. You'll cross the continental divide at a cloud forest overlook before descending through Hector Gallego National Park along Ngabe-Bugle lands, passing thatched-roof villages, hand-woven Panama hat artisans, and the Calovebora River. The tour ends at the Caribbean in the village of Calovebora, where dugout canoes and water taxis connect communities split between river and sea.
On this 150-minute tour, you'll have a chance to:
- Pass through and learn about four National Protected Areas, including two National Parks located in the rainforest.
- Visit San Francisco's Panaderia San Roque, famous for its cheekily named breads and traditional corn-based chicheme drink
- Hike to El Salto de San Francisco, a small waterfall once used for local baptisms
- Spot roadside hawks, vultures, toucans and iguanas
- Take a footbridge to visit the indigenous Ngabe lands.
- Explore Santa Fe's Coffee Cooperative, where over 100 small farmers process two distinct local coffee brands
- Search for orchids, bromeliads, and tree frogs at the misty Mirador Loma Grande overlook
- Spot Llanito Waterfall
- Hear the story of Columbus and Nicuesa's failed attempts to found Panama's first colony along this coast
- See Ngabe women's traditional Nagua dresses and handwoven chakara bags at roadside stops
- Walk a coconut lined Caribbean beach
By the time you reach the Caribbean, you'll understand exactly how geography, gold, and resistance shaped this remote stretch of Panama while viewing some of the prettiest landscapes in the country.
Tour Producer
Chaeli
I am a former research ecologist and park ranger, who grew up in the United States. After the university, I entered the Peace Corps, a program where citizens volunteer in other countries, I came to Panama for the first time to teach ecology around 20 years ago.. I met my husband here, fell in love, and after some time in the states, we have made Panama our home for the past fifteen years.
I remember in college, I met an acquaintance on the bus, and asked what kind of job he was hoping to get after graduation. Unlike the grad school or consulting jobs, I was used to hearing, he said he wanted to move to Brazil and become an adventure guide. Wow. I thought that sounded wonderful. Maybe impractical, but wonderful. Now I am the impractical one.
I followed a more traditional route -spent time in grad school, studied ecology, worked at a research institute in a very stressful job. And I kept on thinking of my friend's answer. Finally, my husband and I decided to try something different, opening a tourism business near his family, in an area not known for tourism. That was 15 years ago.
We now own and operate a bed and breakfast in the village of Santa Fe, Veraguas. where I lead guests on backcountry treks into the beautiful rainforest of Santa Fe National Park. I love going back country trekking, have had a few close encounters, and have had the opportunity to name one of its many waterfalls. We make Santa Fe our home and raise our son here.
From talking with guests, and experience with different mobility issues in my own family, I want to provide a window into the Panamanian experience and beautiful landscape that you may not realize or experience on your own.
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Preview Location
Location 43
Ranger Station: Management of National Park
Find a parking spot while I tell you more.
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Park rangers here work in shifts, with 8 days on duty and 8 days off duty, so the front part of the building is office, and in the back is their dormitory....
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Major Landmarks
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Parque Nacional Santa Fe
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Parque Nacional Héctor Gallego
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Balneario Río Santa María
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San Francisco
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Church of San Francisco de la Montaña
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Panaderia San Roque
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Balneario El Salto
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Refresqueria El Mirador
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Río Gatú
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Santa Fé, Veraguas
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Alto de piedra
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ADMINISTRACIÓN PARQUE NACIONAL SANTA FE
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Cascada Loma Grande
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Cascada Las Golondrinas
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Puente Rio Luis
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Playa Calovébora
Getting There
Route Overview
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Start locationBoulevard Panamá, Santiago, Provincia de Veraguas, Panama -
Total distance110km -
Final locationQQQR+96J, Provincia de Veraguas, Panama -
Distance back to start location80km
Directions to Starting Point
The tour begins in the Boulevard Shopping Center in Santiago on the Interamerican. It's a good-sized parking lot, park somewhere near the Rey Supermercado.
Tips
Places to stop along the way
Along this route there are several options to stop for food, sightseeing, viewpoints, and hikes. These will be pointed out along the way. Some options covered include:
Stops within three National Protected Areas: Reserva Forestal Alto Guarumo, Parque Nacional Santa Fe, Parque Nacional Hector Gallego
Food & Drink: San Roques Panadaria, El Mirador Refrequeria and Quesaria,
Historical Church in San Francisco
Swimming Areas: Rio Santa Maria, Rio Gatu, El Salto in San Francisco, Santa Fe National Park
- Multiple hikes, including Alto de Piedra Falls, Loma Grande Falls, Sendero de los Tucanes, Loop Trail of the Ranger Station.
Optional 4x4 Spurs: Cerro Tute, Chorrillon Falls
Best time of day
From dawn to dusk.
Precautions
Roadwork: Road section repaving. With our heavy rains, roadwork is very common to maintain road condition. At the time of production, they were repaving about 4 sections, each of about 400m in length along this route. If they are working, they will have cones out and someone directing traffic.
Rain: Heavy rains are common in the afternoons, but usually last for under half an hour. Panamanians will put their hazard warning lights on while driving in heavy rains. If you are concerned about visibility, just pull over and wait it out.
Police stops: In Panama, police stops are common to check driving licenses. I just keep mine out on the console when driving, so I can rapidly give to officer. If stopped, just roll down window and give officer your driving license and passport. They will thank you, look at it for a second, then return it. You then proceed.
Hailing down car to sell vegetables: As you descend from the Overlook in Santa Fe National Park towards Guabal, there is one man who tends to hail down passing cars to try to sell plantains and other vegetables. If you are not in the mood for vegetables, you do not need to stop.
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