Ottawa‘s hidden history: from lawless outpost to Canada‘s capital
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About the Tour
About the Tour
Ottawa‘s significance extends much further than its Houses of Parliament and famous museums. Before becoming Canada‘s capital, the city was known as Bytown. It was a rough, lawless place in the wilderness. On this walking tour through old Bytown you’ll trace the city’s evolution from a small lumber town to Queen Victoria‘s choice as Canada‘s capital, and discover Ottawa‘s hidden backstory, when brawling lumber crews ran riot.
Our tour starts at Major‘s Hill Park, where we‘ll pay tribute to Colonel John By, at his statue, and enjoy a beautiful view of the Ottawa River. You'll stroll down York Street and learn about the early days of the iconic ByWard Market. Ottawa‘s past will come to life in the serene Jeanne d‘Arc Courtyard where you‘ll hear about the divisions, both religious and spatial, that fueled the feuding Bytown residents. On Sussex Drive, you‘ll explore popular sites from new perspectives, and travel back to the days when rogues, rioters, and disease made the streets unsafe. Our journey through Ottawa‘s chaotic history ends with a peaceful view of the Rideau Canal at Plaza Bridge.
On this Ottawa walking tour, you‘ll have a chance to:
- Relive the turmoil in Bytown with stories of street riots and gang fights
- Hear about the deadly typhus epidemic of 1847 caused by Irish immigrants fleeing the Great Irish famine
- Uncover the vision behind the Rideau Canal and hear about the people who built it
- Learn about Elizabeth Bruyere, the 27-year-old nun who founded Ottawa‘s first hospital
- Discover the historical factors behind York Street‘s width
- Visit ByWard Market and learn about its changing role in sustaining Ottawa since Bytown days
- See Sussex Drive‘s oldest buildings, including the Notre Dame Cathedral Basilica and LaSalle Academy
By the end of this one-hour walk, you‘ll see Ottawa through different eyes and appreciate the challenges and successes it experienced in its first 30 years.
Tour Producer
Tour Producer
Felicity Mulgan
After moving to Ottawa in 2002, I became fascinated by its rich and colourful history. Whoever said Canada’s history is boring got it plain wrong. There’s so much more than meets the eye – some of it really dark! The interest lies in the unexpected details, the curiosities, and the quirky stories. That’s what I bring out in my guided walks.
When I discovered that I was directly descended from Asa Meech, one of the first settlers to the region in the 1800s, I felt even more connected to the city. My research into the early days of Canada’s capital revealed the extraordinary achievements of its early pioneers, and the complicated but fascinating stories that helped shape this modern city.
Drawing on my Masters in adult learning, and my experience in film, multi-media and journalism, I enjoy bringing history to life, going beyond the obvious, and helping people see familiar places through fresh eyes.
When I’m not home in Ottawa, I enjoy travelling and, especially, learning about other people’s cities.
Preview Location
Preview Location
Location 13
Byward Market building 2
In the 1830s, many of the labourers who had come to work on the Rideau Canal settled in Bytown, particularly in the Lowertown area where we are now. Bytown had a population of 1000 in 1832, and those people needed s... Read More
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Major Landmarks
Major Landmarks
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Rideau Canal
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Notre Dame Cathedral Basilica
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Major's Hill Park
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Colonel John By Statue
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ByWard Market
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LaSalle Academy
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Rideau Canal
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York Steps
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York Street Millennium Fountain
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Tin House Court
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Rochon House
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Jeanne d'Arc Court
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Hôpital Élisabeth Bruyère Hospital
Getting There
Getting There
Route Overview
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Start locationMackenzie Ave, Ottawa, ON K1N 1G8, Canada
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Total distance3km
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Distance back to start location194.26m
Directions to Starting Point
The tour begins at the entrance to Major's Hill Park on Mackenzie Avenue, just behind the Chateau Laurier hotel. It starts directly opposite 555 Mackenzie Avenue, the Connaught Building.
It's the first entrance to the park as you walk along Mackenzie away from Rideau Street. It's right after the hotel's parking lot, and opposite the entrance to the Connaught Building on the other side of the road. There is plenty of parking in the nearby ByWard Market area, and lots of buses serve Rideau Street. The Rideau O-Train station is about a 5-minute walk away down Rideau Street.
Show Directions
Tips
Tips
Places to stop along the way
If you need to grab a drink or something to eat, there are lots of restaurants and cafes in the ByWard Market area. You may also want to go inside the Notre Dame Cathedral which is open daily.
Best time of day
From dawn to dusk. Can be done year-round, weather permitting. Note that the York Street Fountain is shut off in winter.
Precautions
Ottawa is a very safe city. Use your usual common sense when walking around the market area.
If doing the tour in winter, be aware that some parts of the route may be slippery. You will also be descending a flight of steps between Major's Hill Park and Sussex Drive.
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Questions and Reviews
Questions and Reviews
