Madrid’s Literary District: A Barrio de las Letras Tour
About the Tour
The charming Huertas area has been Madrid’s literary hub ever since 1583. That year, the city’s first theatre was established, known first as Teatro del Príncipe, then Corral del Príncipe and, today, Teatro Español.
On this walking tour through Barrio de las Letras (known as the Literary Quarter), you’ll find out how writers shaped the city, from the Golden Age (Siglo de Oro) up to the present day.
Starting in front of Teatro Español on Plaza de Santa Ana, you’ll stroll through the district’s quaint streets to see where a world-weary Cervantes settled to pen Don Quijote, just down the road from his greatest frenemy, Lope de Vega. I’ll also show you where, centuries later during the Spanish Civil War, Hemingway whet his whistle in bars like La Venencia and Ceveceria Alemana.
Along the way, you’ll discover interesting shops like Miguel Miranda bookstore and Brown Bear Bakery, and historical bars like Viva Madrid and Casa Alberto. I’ll show you the ancient convent, Convento de las Trinitarias Descalzas de San Ildefonso, where Cervantes’ bones are interred. You’ll also see a statue of Spain’s greatest writer, Miguel de Cervantes, standing proudly in Plaza de las Cortes where you can learn all about Spain’s rocky road to democracy.
The tour ends at El Angel del Jardin, a picturesque garden and florist that’s haunted by the lively spirits of the neighbourhood’s long-dead writers.
Along the way, you’ll:
- Visit Lope de Vega’s House Museum, the playwright’s charming 16th-century house and garden
- Learn about the bitter rivalries raging between Madrid’s talented writers
- Pass by the historic literary institution, Ateneo de Madrid
- Drop by some of Hemingway’s favourite drinking holes
- Witness the Siege of Madrid through the eyes of writers like Laurie Lee
- See the statue of Frederico Garcia Lorca, Spain’s greatest poet
Join me on this leisurely 60-minute walk through Barrio de las Letras, Madrid’s literary district, and find out how the area, the city and the country were shaped by some of the world’s greatest writers.
Tour Producer
Felicity Hughes
Felicity Hughes is a British writer and tour guide based in Madrid. Back in 2017, she started a history blog called The Making of Madrid. The idea was to help readers understand the forces that have shaped Spain's capital, following its transformation from a medieval medina to a glittering metropolis. The project was a hit, and she has now become a well-known local expert, with articles published in The Guardian, Al Jazeera, the Financial Times, and Time Out. She also writes extensively for Lonely Planet and is the lead writer for their Madrid guides.
Drawing on years of research and a deep love for the city, Felicity brings Madrid's layered history to life through immersive, story-driven tours. In 2024, she launched a podcast that helps listeners get under the skin of the city, so if you want to get a preview of what you'll hear on a tour, tune into The Making of Madrid on Spotify or Apple Podcasts.
Preview Location
Location 6
Casa de Cervantes
Look up at the plaque on the wall of this house.
Though the original building has again been demolished, this is where Cervantes completed the manuscript for the first part of Don Quijote. The ultimate late bloome... Read More
How VoiceMap Works
Major Landmarks
-
Teatro Español
-
Casa Alberto
-
Brown Bear Bakery
-
Lope de Vega's House-Museum
-
Cervecería Restaurante Quevedo
-
Convento de las Trinitarias Descalzas de San Ildefonso
-
Miguel Miranda Bookstore
-
Plaza de las Cortes
-
Statue of Miguel de Cervantes
-
Ateneo de Madrid
-
Licores Cabello
-
La Venencia
-
Viva Madrid
-
Estatua "Madrid a Federico García Lorca"
-
Cervecería Alemana
-
El Parnasillo del Príncipe
-
El Ángel del Jardín
-
Antiguo cementerio de la iglesia de San Sebastián
Getting There
Route Overview
-
Total distance2km -
Final locationC. de las Huertas, 2, Centro, 28012 Madrid, Spain -
Distance back to start location107.51m
Directions to Starting Point
The tour begins in front of the Teatro Español in Plaza de Santa Ana.
Construction work is due to commence in this square so you may find it difficult to spot until you're close to it.
Tips
Places to stop along the way
If you fancy a homemade cake, drop by the Brown Bear Bakery. There are several historic bars on the route and all are great places to stop by for beer, except for La Venencia where the only drinks available are sherry and water! At the end of the route, we recommend visiting The Secret Kingdoms English language bookshop or the Mercado de Anton Martin for tapas.
Best time of day
Any time is fine but the bar La Venencia and the bookshop Miguel de Miranda do close in the afternoons, so if you want to visit these check opening times.
Precautions
Pickpocketing is common in Madrid but you should be fine if you keep your valuables safely tucked away. During the summer months, we don't recommend doing the tour any later than 2pm due to the heat.
Get The App