Romans, Plague, and Traboules: A Vieux Lyon Self-Guided Walking Tour
About the Tour
Vieux Lyon holds more than 2,000 years of history within its narrow, cobbled streets. On this walking tour, you'll trace the city's story from its Roman foundations to its Renaissance golden age, when Florentine bankers and silk merchants transformed it into one of Europe's wealthiest cities. You'll also discover how its medieval passageways, ancient aqueducts, and silk weaving workshops were nearly lost forever.
The tour starts at Jardin André Malraux, next to Minimes Théatres Romains Metro, where you'll explore one of France's most impressive Roman complexes. You'll follow a footpath past the remnants of the Aqueduc du Gier – once the longest Roman aqueduct in France at 75 kilometres – to Fourvière Basilica, with its sweeping views over Lyon's two rivers and, on a clear day, the Alps.
From there, you'll descend into Vieux Lyon, the Renaissance old town that was nearly bulldozed in the 1950s before being saved – eventually becoming a UNESCO World Heritage Site. You'll duck through La Longue Traboule, the city's longest secret passageway, snaking through five courtyards and four buildings. The tour ends at Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste, a cathedral that took 300 years to build, and hides a remarkable secret on its facade.
On this 90-minute tour, you'll have a chance to:
- Sit in the tiered stone seats of the théâtre gallo-romain, built in 15 BCE, and still used for open-air concerts every summer
- Stroll along Rue du Boeuf, once home to more Michelin-starred restaurants per metre than any street in France and hear how Eugénie Brazier became the first person to earn six Michelin stars, decades before Alain Ducasse
- Visit Loyasse Cemetery, resting place of Lyon's longest-serving mayor and a 19th-century faith healer turned Tsar's advisor
- Explore the origin of Lyon's Fête des Lumières, traced back to a plague epidemic and a flooded sculptor's workshop
- Learn how the Jacquard loom sparked bloody riots among Vieux Lyon's silk workers
- Spot Ahmed, France's only Muslim gargoyle, carved by a sculptor in his own likeness during a 2010 restoration
This tour gives you Lyon as the locals know it – layered, surprising, and genuinely extraordinary.
Tour Producer
Anna Richards
Anna is an award-winning travel and adventure writer who has been living in Lyon, France since 2021, drawn by proximity to the mountains. She’s the author of the Mini Rough Guide to Lyon for Rough Guides, Paddling France for Bradt Guides, and many Lonely Planet chapters on Lyon and the surrounding areas. She regularly writes for the BBC, National Geographic, The Telegraph and countless other publications.
Although she writes about just about everywhere in France, there’s no place like home, and there’s more than one reason why she’s chosen to stay in Lyon. It has it all: proximity to the Alps, two rivers, proper seasons with hot summers and cold winters, wine bars in abundance, and plenty of green spaces. Lyon also has one of the most varied and rich histories of any French city, as the Roman capital of Gaul, the silk weaving capital of Europe, and long-standing foodie capital of France.
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Preview Location
Location 14
Sadi Carnot Assassination
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Rue Cardinal Gerlier will be to your right.
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We’re on our way to Loyasse Cemetery, where many of Lyon’s former mayors are buried, so let me tell you about a very important politi... Read More
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Major Landmarks
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Théâtre Gallo Romain
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Cimetière de Loyasse
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Basilica of Notre Dame of Fourvière
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La Longue Traboule
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Le Petit Musée de Guignol
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Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste
Getting There
Route Overview
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Start locationRue Professeur Pierre Marion, 69005 Lyon, France -
Total distance5km -
Final locationPl. Saint-Jean, 69005 Lyon, France -
Distance back to start location494.33m
Directions to Starting Point
The tour starts at Jardin André Malraux, just below Minimes Théatres Romains metro station, on the funicular line from Vieux Lyon (Metro Line D). If you'd prefer to walk up the hill from Vieux Lyon rather than taking the funicular, this takes around 15-20 minutes.
Tips
Places to stop along the way
There are heaps of great museums along the tour. Lugdunum, at the Théatres Romains, is well worth a visit, but since it merits a few hours, it might be one to come back to after the tour! For the best view in the city, see if visits to the domes of Fourvière Basilica are taking place on your dates. They're very reasonably priced, and you'll get a birds' eye view over both rivers, all the way to the Alps.
Vieux Lyon is full of bars and restaurants, which vary enormously in quality as it's the most touristy part of town. It's worth leaving Rue Saint-Jean for one of the side streets for lower prices and better quality.
Best time of day
There's no best time to do this tour, but when events are being held at the Théatres Romains (particularly during June and July, when it hosts two months of concerts during Nuits de Fourvière, aim for earlier in the day. A few hours before concerts begin, access to the Roman complex will be restricted to those with tickets.
Precautions
In summer, pack water and sunscreen, it gets extremely hot in Lyon and this part of the city is far from flat.
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