The Van Eyck Code: Hunting Ghent's Missing Masterpiece Walking Tour
About the Tour
Ghent's most famous artwork has been targeted by thieves, Napoleon's armies, and Hitler's art looters. And yet it still hangs in the cathedral where it was unveiled in 1432, all except one stolen panel that remains missing to this day. On this true crime walking tour, you'll follow the trail of a 1934 heist that removed two panels from the Van Eyck brothers' Adoration of the Mystic Lamb, one of the greatest paintings in Western art. You'll uncover the ransom letters, study the bungled police investigation, and learn about the obsessive theories that have kept this 90-year-old mystery alive.
The tour starts at Hotel 1898 The Post, a Neo-Gothic building that was originally Ghent's main post office. From here, you'll cross Sint-Michielsbrug for a view of Ghent's famous three towers, then wind through medieval streets past street art murals inspired by the altarpiece and a house where the German artist Albrecht Dürer once stayed. You'll stand outside Sint-Baafskathedraal and hear exactly how the theft unfolded, before tracing the getaway route through surrounding lanes where witnesses spotted suspicious cars that night.
The investigation leads you to the Bishop's Palace letterbox where ransom notes were delivered, and through quiet streets where detectives have dug up a garage floor, emptied an ancient well, and excavated a cobblestoned square, all without finding a thing. The tour ends at the Vijd Chapel, where the altarpiece originally hung before it was moved to a more secure location.
During this 90-minute tour, you'll have the chance to:
- See the Mystic Lamb street art mural by Bart Smeets, depicting the looted panels hidden behind a blasted wall
- Visit the house at Kleine Turkije 2 where Albrecht Dürer stayed during his 1521 trip to Ghent
- Examine the Bishop's Palace letterbox where the blackmailer posted ransom demands signed D.U.A.
- Explore the Wintercircus, an 1893 indoor circus that once housed elephants and 3,400 spectators
- Discover the Weavers' Chapel, a 14th-century guild chapel hidden inside a furniture design store
- Hear how a paranormal investigator tried to crack the case by illegally digging up the blackmailer's skull
The mystery is unsolved, a detective is still on the case, and the panel is somewhere out there. Head off on this walk through the Ghent streets and see if you can spot the clue everyone else has missed.
Tour Producer
Derek Blyth
Welcome to the walk. I’m a writer and journalist from Scotland, but I’ve lived in Belgium for more than 30 years. Long enough to get to know the country and its secret places. As a former editor-in-chief of the Belgian magazine The Bulletin and regular contributor to brusselstimes.com, I’ve written countless articles, as well as bestselling guidebooks in the series the500hiddensecrets.com focusing on Brussels, Antwerp, Ghent and Hidden Belgium.
For more than ten years, I’ve been leading small groups on walking tours through the streets of several Belgian cities. I especially like to take people to the places that almost no one knows about in Brussels, Ghent, Antwerp and Ypres. I love the hidden lanes, the unexpected shops, the old cafes. You can get to know some of my favourite spots by taking a look at my website mysecretbrussels.com
I created my first Voicemap tour in the relatively unknown city of Ghent, where I designed a route that would highlight unknown spots and unusual anecdotes. My next tour was shaped to show off some of my favourite spots in Brussels. Then I put together a walk in the port city of Antwerp to reveal some of the places I think make this city exceptional. I then decided to guide people around the ancient city of Ypres where reminders of World War One have marked almost every building from the mediaeval cloth hall to the city walls. My next project involved the modest Flemish city of Mechelen where the sound of church bells follows you through the streets. More recently, I've added the curious and sometimes absurd twin border towns of Baarle-Nassau/Baarle-Hertog where national frontiers run through private houses, shops and the local library. And my latest tour is a true crime story involving the unsolved theft of a mediaeval masterpiece in Ghent Cathedral.
When I'm not exploring hidden Belgium, I like to tramp across Scottish hills, take slow ferries to remote Greek islands, and swim in cold Finnish lakes. Anything to escape the ordinary.
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Preview Location
Location 12
Cathedral Entrance
It's 5.30 on the morning of 11 April 1934. The Cathedral caretaker has arrived in the dark to unlock the building. He doesn't use the main door, but the side door to your right. He takes out his keys. And then he notices something odd. The ...
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Major Landmarks
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1898 The Post and Porter's house
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Gent City Hall
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St Bavo's Cathedral
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Bisdom Gent
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Geeraard de Duivelsteen
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Wintercircus
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De Krook
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Take Five Espressobar
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BOLIA
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Cafe Loma
Getting There
Route Overview
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Start locationGraslei 16, 9000 Gent, Belgium -
Total distance3km -
Final locationMaaseikplein, 9000 Gent, Belgium -
Distance back to start location473.06m
Directions to Starting Point
The tour begins in the heart of Ghent at Korenmarkt 16, on the corner of Korenmarkt and Pakhuisstraat. You'll see a corner tower with a glass door marked Hotel 1898 The Post. That's where you'll find me.
Tips
Places to stop along the way
There are endless places to stop along the way for a coffee, lunch or a Belgian beer. You might begin with a coffee near the starting point, at Le Pain Quotidien located inside the grand former post office. Or you might start off in the Sphinx cinema café on the other side of the street.
And if it's lunch you need, head to the relaxed Umamido ramen restaurant not far from the starting point. Along the route, you'll pass by several good coffee bars including Take Five Espressobar (my personal favourite), Koffeine and Peaberry.
By the end of the walk, if you're looking for a nearby bar, I'd suggest Edelrot for a glass of wine, or Trollekeller if you're looking for an authentic Ghent bar for a local beer. You can find more recommendations in my guidebook The 500 Hidden Secrets of Ghent.
Best time of day
This walk can be done at any time, but you might want to time it to fit with the Cathedral opening times. You can visit the Cathedral from Monday to Friday from 8.30 to 17.30, and on Sunday from 13.00 to 17.30. The Cathedral is free to visit but you pay to see the altarpiece.
Precautions
Ghent is a safe city. Just exercise the normal precautions and watch out when you cross the street for trams and bicycles. Bear in mind the cobblestone streets are uneven so wear sturdy shoes. And take along an umbrella if it looks as if it might rain.
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