Castles of Castile and Al-Andalus: A Drive from Córdoba to Granada
About the Tour
The mountains between Córdoba and Granada have long formed a natural boundary between peoples and cultures. For 250 years in the late Middle Ages, this is where the Christian Kingdom of Castile rubbed up against the Muslim Kingdom of Granada. You’ll drive through rolling olive groves and past rocky outcrops dotted with medieval castles and watchtowers, while you discover how the landscape has shaped the history of the area.
The tour starts at the Repsol service station on the outskirts of Córdoba, heading south-east along the N-432. Gradually leaving behind the fertile Guadalquivir valley, you’ll pass the towns of Espejo, Castro del Río and Baena, famed for its olive oil. Then we’ll take a scenic detour, skirting around the dramatic limestone cliffs and gorges of the Sierras Subbéticas UNESCO Global Geopark and the Montilla-Moriles wine region to explore the charming villages of Luque, Zuheros and Doña Mencía. After passing the castles at Alcaudete and Alcalá la Real, our tour will end in Moclín, another pretty whitewashed mountain village once considered the “gateway to Granada”. It was the last castle between Córdoba and Granada to fall to the Christians before the Muslims finally surrendered the city itself in 1492.
The tour should take about 3 hours with very limited stops, but allow much longer if you want to enjoy the towns, villages, scenery and sights along the way at a leisurely pace.
On this 3-hour driving tour you’ll have the chance to:
- Visit a well-preserved medieval fortress at Fortaleza de la Mota in Alcalá la Real or Alcaudete Castle, where you will discover what it was like to live on this dangerous frontier during the Middle Ages
- Explore the beautiful whitewashed villages of Zuheros and Moclín, set amidst breathtaking mountain scenery
- Hear about María de Molina, who wielded power and influence under three different kings, and discover the extraordinary story of Juan Latino
- Follow the route trodden since time immemorial by knights, merchants, pilgrims and Romantic travellers
- Visit the setting of Robert Capa’s iconic photograph of the Spanish Civil War
- Find out how Julius Caesar defeated his rivals and paved the way for the Roman Empire
- Sample locally-produced olive oils, cheeses and Montilla-Moriles wines at Los Balanchares near Zuheros or Bodegas Mencianas in Doña Mencía
You’ll immerse yourself in a beautiful region that most visitors never get to see, while hearing about some of the fascinating characters and events in the history of Andalucía. This tour rewards curiosity – the more you stop, the more you'll find.
Tour Producer
Ben Barclay
When I moved to Granada in 2006, I initially intended to stay for a year or two. Maybe three or four at most. But like many people, I was captivated by the city’s history and culture, as well as its strategic location close to the sea and in the shadow of the imposing Sierra Nevada mountains. Having travelled widely before I came here, I knew that Granada was special. Little by little I became a local – a “Granaíno”. As well as enjoying everything Granada has to offer, I love exploring the cities and countryside of Andalucía, and my wife and I recently set up the travel website Andalucía Bound (andalucia-bound.com), which offers inspiration and practical advice for visitors to Andalucía. We're also keen hikers, and for fifteen years we've been running the website treksierranevada.com, with information about self-guided hikes in the Sierra Nevada.
In 2011, I co-founded the educational publisher LinguaFrame S.L., which produces textbooks in English for Spanish secondary schools, and I'm the author and editor of fifteen history, geography and science textbooks. I also work as a government-authorised translator, with my specialist areas including historical and cultural texts for museums and advertising material related to tourism.
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Preview Location
Location 57
Alcaudete and the Order of Calatrava
Alcaudete occupies a strategic location above the junction of the roads to Granada, Jaén and Córdoba, and the Muslims had a castle and walled town here from the 800s onwards. In 1246, Ferdinand III gave it to the Order of Calat...
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Major Landmarks
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Monumento Muerte de un Miliciano de Robert Capa
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Museo Histórico-Arqueológico de Baena (Casa de la Tercia)
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Museo del Olivar y del Aceite
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Castillo de Luque
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Zuheros
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Doña Mencía
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Bunkeres del Alamillo
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Castillo de Alcaudete
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Fortaleza de la Mota
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Moclín
Getting There
Route Overview
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Start locationN-432, Km. 276, 5, 14820 Córdoba, Spain -
Total distance156km -
Final locationGR-3408, 18247 Moclín, Granada, Spain -
Distance back to start location103km
Directions to Starting Point
The tour starts at the Repsol service station just south of Córdoba on the N-432.
Tips
Places to stop along the way
There are various interesting places to stop along the way, but you won’t have time for everything, so it’s worth planning a bit in advance and checking the current opening times.
Recommended villages: Zuheros (a good option for lunch) and Moclín (end of the tour).
Recommended castles
- Fortaleza de la Mota (Alcalá la Real)*: https://turismo.alcalalareal.es/fortaleza-de-la-mota/
- Alcaudete castle*: https://alcaudeteturismo.com/visita-alcaudete/visita-castillo-calatravo/
Luque castle: https://turismodelasubbetica.es/luque/item/recinto-amurallado-del-castillo-hisn-lukk
You can book online in advance, but it’s not normally necessary.
Sites related to the Spanish Civil War
- Death of a Loyalist Militiaman monument in Espejo
- Bunkers at Estación de Luque
- Trenches at Moclín
Shopping
- Los Balanchares (near Zuheros): cheeses and other local products, including olive oil and wine
- Bodegas Mencianas (Doña Mencia): Montilla-Moriles wines
Baena museums
- Baena historical and archaeological museum: https://www.baenaturismo.com/en/municipal-historical-and-archaeological-museum/
- Baena olive groves and oil museum: https://www.baenaturismo.com/en/olive-groves-and-oil-museum/
Best time of day
The scenery evolves with the seasons: snow-capped peaks in winter and spring; beautiful spring flowers including bright-red poppies; and autumn colours from October onwards. You’ll see most birds during their autumn or spring migrations.
While it’s perfectly possible to do the tour all year round, this part of inland Andalucía is punishingly hot in summer – particularly July and August – which makes it less appealing to get out of your car to visit the sights you pass.
I’d recommend starting out early in the day to leave time for plenty of exploring along the way. You could also consider an overnight stop half-way – for example, in the lovely village of Zuheros.
Precautions
The sun can be very bright, even in winter, so have sunglasses to hand. Check the weather forecast before setting out, and if very heavy rain is forecast, adjust your plans. Storms aren’t very frequent, but can be devastating.
If you have an electric car, the best fast chargers on the route are at Espejo (by the Alcazaba restaurant) and Alcalá la Real (at the Shell service station). Petrol/gas stations are easier to come by, although you won’t find many on the section between Baena and Alcaudete.
If you’re continuing to Granada from Moclín at the end of the tour, allow at least another 45 minutes.
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