Bratıslava

It's Pressburg to the Austrians, Pozsony to the Hungarians and Bratislava to the Slovaks, and it's the city where Hungary crowned 18 kings and queens once the Ottomans had taken Buda. A place with that many names has had that many claimants, and the local saying has it Slovak in the morning, Hungarian during the day and German in the evening.

Most visitors meet it as a stopover between Vienna and Budapest: an old town you can take in over a coffee, a photo with Čumil, the bronze sewer worker peering out of a manhole, and then on to the next capital.

VoiceMap's self-guided audio tours know what the stopover misses. They'll tell you how the Peace of Pressburg, signed in 1805 after Austerlitz, helped bring the Holy Roman Empire to an end, and how a six-year-old Mozart may have played at one of the town's grand houses, though nobody can say which and a few Bratislavans have simply picked one.

Press play and stay past the first photo.