Guns, Tunnels and Māori Heritage: A North Head Summit Audio Tour
About the Tour
Maungauika North Head Historic Reserve is home to one of Auckland’s most intriguing military fortresses. On this walking tour, you’ll climb through hand-carved tunnels, explore gun emplacements, and hear stories spanning 800 years – from Māori pā fortifications to Cold War secrets.
Starting at the Tainui Landing Memorial Marae, you’ll summit this ancient volcanic cone that guards Auckland’s harbour entrance. You’ll discover how this was where Māori chief Uika once established his settlement and how, later, colonial fears of Russian invasion created an underground labyrinth. You’ll walk the same paths used by Māori defenders, Victorian soldiers, and WWII personnel who carved these tunnels by hand through volcanic rock.
The tour winds from Torpedo Bay through Devonport Domain park and up the summit with its spectacular 360-degree views. You’ll then head down to the charming and secluded Cheltenham Beach before returning along the waterfront. The tour ends in front of the Torpedo Bay Navy Museum, where you could relax for a while at Torpedo Bay Café.
On this 90-minute tour, you’ll have a chance to:
- Stand beside massive disappearing gun emplacements that could sink warships but never fired a shot in anger
- See the Tainui Landing site, where Polynesian voyagers first arrived 700 years ago
- Walk down ”smuggler stairs,” a pathway carved directly into volcanic stone that leads to hidden bunkers
- Learn about the South Battery’s innovative hydro-pneumatic gun carriages and see the Memorial Saluting Battery
- Pass Cheltenham Road’s heritage homes and the McHughs of Cheltenham restaurant, and find out how this peaceful suburb once bristled with searchlights and submarine nets
- Hear legends about secret chambers and buried aircraft that have fuelled decades of mystery
By the end of this tour, you’ll have experienced one of Auckland’s most captivating walks where volcanic geology, Māori heritage, and military ingenuity create an unforgettable adventure above one of the world’s most beautiful harbours.
Please note: The tour includes moderate climbs and hand-hewn stone stairs, but the stories and views make every step worthwhile.
Tour Producer
David Downs
Kia ora – I’m David Downs: writer, former comedian, CEO, and lifelong storyteller.
My career has zigzagged in the best possible way. I started out in comedy, writing and performing stand-up and television, learning how to find the human truth in any situation – and how to keep an audience leaning in. That instinct to connect through humour and story has shaped everything I’ve done since.
I’ve written several books, including memoir and business titles, often drawing on my own life – from building start-ups and working in technology, to facing cancer and travelling to Boston for life-saving CAR T-cell therapy. Story, for me, isn’t just entertainment. It’s how we make sense of challenge, change, and possibility.
Today, as CEO of New Zealand Story, I lead the team responsible for sharing Aotearoa’s story with the world. That means shaping how we present our country’s identity, values, creativity and innovation on the global stage. It’s nation-branding, yes – but at heart it’s still storytelling: who we are, where we’ve come from, and what we stand for.
Through my tours, talks and writing, I bring that same lens to the places around us. I’m fascinated by the layers beneath the surface – Māori history, early European settlement, hidden military stories, forgotten industries, and the quirky characters who shaped our communities.
If you walk with me – literally or through audio – you won’t just hear dates and facts. You’ll hear stories that connect past to present, and help you see Aotearoa with fresh eyes.
Preview Location
Location 16
The Summit and Battery
How VoiceMap Works
Major Landmarks
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TAINUI LANDING MEMORIAL MARAE
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North Head
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Torpedo Bay
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Devonport Domain
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Takarunga Road
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Maungauika / North Head Historic Reserve
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Old Guns Never Die
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North Head Summit
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Summit Battery (Fort Cautley)
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North Head, South Battery
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Cheltenham Beach
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McHughs Of Cheltenham
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Cheltenham Road
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Torpedo Bay Cafe
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Torpedo Bay Navy Museum
Getting There
Route Overview
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Start locationTimber Trail, Devonport, Auckland 0624, New Zealand -
Total distance3km -
Final location64 King Edward Parade, Devonport, Auckland 0624, New Zealand -
Distance back to start location320.09m
Directions to Starting Point
The tour starts on King Edward Parade by the Tainui Landing Memorial. There should be plenty of parking on the street, and we will end near here too. Opposite the street to 44 King Edward Parade, Devonport, Auckland 0624, New Zealand.
Tips
Places to stop along the way
There is a cafe at the end of the walk, and a couple of public toilets along the route. You'll also have the opportunity to explore some tunnels!
Best time of day
From dawn until dusk; best to do this in daylight as there are some steps.
Precautions
There are stairs and some older paths; make sure you are steady on your feet. Bring a drink, hat and sunscreen in winter. We will be climbing a (dormant) volcano! Bring a torch or a charged cellphone if you want to go into the tunnels.
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