Plaza de Colón has a statue of Christopher Columbus in its middle, which is fitting, since it was Columbus who named the island San Juan Bautista, a name the city still carries.

Across the street, Teatro Tapia took eight years to build, opening in 1832, and remains Puerto Rico’s oldest drama stage. Beside it stands the long, two-storey building that was the first school the United States government built on the island, rumoured to be among its first cement buildings when most Spanish construction had used brick and mortar.

VoiceMap’s self-guided audio tours use the plaza as evidence of Spain’s and America’s overlapping rule, then follow the music that grew from it: on to The Noise, the club where Daddy Yankee and Ivy Queen once performed, and La Perla, where the Despacito video was filmed.