Via San Gregorio Armeno is Naples's Christmas street all year round, its workshops turning out tiny shepherds, wise men and, more improbably, whichever footballer or disgraced politician dominated that year's headlines, all rendered in painted terracotta.

The street takes its name from the complex at its centre, raised over an ancient temple to Ceres and rebuilt in 1577 around a smuggled relic: the skull of Saint Gregory of Armenia. Its convent was once a plush retreat for Neapolitan nobility's daughters, who kept private apartments and received guests until the Council of Trent intervened. One abbess had to demolish her own quarters by hand to prove compliance; 17 nuns walked out rather than accept the new austerity.

VoiceMap's self-guided audio tours walk this street twice over, tracing its scandalous cloistered past before revealing how its shopfronts became Naples's yearly report card on celebrity and politics, one clay figurine at a time.