Hamburg's Reeperbahn has earned a nickname few streets would want: Germany's most sinful mile. Stretching through St. Pauli, it is the beating heart of the city's nightlife. It's lined with clubs, theatres and the red light district that gives the area its notoriety, alongside, three times a year, a rather more wholesome funfair called the Hamburg Dom.

The name itself hides a gentler past. "Reeperbahn" means "rope weaving way". It's a nod to the ropemakers who once needed a long, straight stretch of land to twist rigging for the sailing ships bound for Hamburg's harbour. This was long before anyone thought to open a nightclub here.

VoiceMap's self-guided audio tours use the street to trace St. Pauli's tug-of-war between grit and gentrification, following how the beloved Mojo Club, once threatened with demolition, survived by tunnelling into the cellar of the glassy Dancing Towers nearby, tickets still cheap, spirit intact.