Take a walk through the evolving Bywater. Historically a working class neighborhood, it has become a destination for artists and those seeking alternatives to the spectacle of the French Quarter. With its artist-run collectives, new bars and restaurants, and music venues popping up all over the neighborhood, nightlife has begun to migrate here. This walk will wind you through some of its non-commercial, daytime offerings, with an eye toward some of the natural, historical, and overlooked details that give it character. Along the way, your walk will be punctuated with poetry, and you will have some personal time with the Mississippi River that makes the city "crescent."
New Orleans Center for Creative Arts, Dr. Bob's Art Studio
You will begin your walk right by the railroad tracks which divide the Marigny from the Bywater at the site where Homer Plessy performed his famous act of civil disobedience by boarding a whites-only train. The plaque is at the corner of Royal and Press Streets and is an easy, 15 minute walk from the French Quarter, following Royal Street with the big buildings of the Business District behind you until you see the tracks. You can also take the RTA #5 bus line from Canal and N. Peters.
Places to stop along the way:
Pizza Delicious, Euclid Records, Piety Street Market, 5 Press Gallery
Best time of day:
Early morning in summer before it gets too hot or just before sunset so you can catch the skies along the river before Crescent Park closes.
Unless you are here during our quick-lived winter, be prepared to walk slowly through the humid air. Bring a water bottle and sun hat. Be aware of what's around you. Unfortunately, New Orleans is known as much for its crime as for its languid bohemian atmosphere.
Our journey begins at the famous corner of Royal and Canal Streets in Old New Orleans. This was the gateway to the nineteenth century Creole "promenade publique". It was a lavish and decadent antebellum existence, filled with art, banquets,... More»
Enter the former Metairie Race Course, an earthly venue for the “quick,” now elegantly transformed into a glorious “City of the Dead” - where no one is in a hurry. Architecture and archeology seem to converge in this hallowed landscape of imposing... More»
It's said that jazz is America's only original art form. Many claim to have invented the style, but most agree it was a creation with myriad players and influences. Yet, all agree its birthplace was New Orleans. Since its inception, and by its... More»