Queer History and Iconic Places: An Edinburgh Walking Tour

(24 reviews)

Edinburgh audio tour: Queer History and Iconic Places: An Edinburgh Walking Tour

This is a 1.5mi walking tour

It takes an average of 45 mins to complete.

Edinburgh

The United Kingdom

$6.99

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About the Tour

Like many cities, Edinburgh’s queer history runs deep, yet it’s hidden in plain sight. On this walking tour, I’ll reveal the city’s queer past, shed light on queerness in Edinburgh today, and share some fascinating tidbits about Scotland’s capital too.

We’ll start by looking out over the Old Town before wandering up Calton Hill, possibly the longest continuously used queer site in the city. Along with finding out about the little-known history of cruising on the hill and Edinburgh’s response to the AIDS crisis, you’ll be able to soak up splendid city views. From there, you’ll make your way down to Broughton Street, the heart of LGBTQ+ Edinburgh. Along the way, I’ll point out the site of the country’s first LGBT centre, and where Scotland’s first queer bookshop, Lavender Menace, used to be. I’ll tell you about these iconic venues from the past, and also share how the queer community fought for the rights they enjoy today.

Since I became a tour guide, I’ve loved digging up untold stories from Scotland’s history. I’ve lived in Edinburgh all my life and the city’s queer history has become a particular passion. I found so much to explore once I started looking, so I’m excited to share some of what I’ve learnt with you on this tour.

On this 45-minute walk, you’ll have the chance to:

Hear about the weekly gay night held at the Edinburgh Playhouse, hosted by the Scottish Homosexual Action Group, or SHAG for short
Find out about William Merrilees, a 1930s police officer who led a crusade against gay men
Learn how the queer community fought Margaret Thatcher
Discover Lark in the Park, the first major public gay rights event in Scotland in 1988, in which Sir Ian McKellen participated
See the Museum Collections Centre which hosted Rainbow City, the first queer history exhibition in 2006

This tour is equally suited to first-time visitors and lifelong residents looking to discover a different side of Edinburgh’s history. Please note that the tour includes mention of subjects like sex and drug use and as such is not suitable for children. There’s no explicit content, so it may be suitable for young people at their parent or guardian’s discretion.

Please be aware that there are some moderate slopes, both uphill and downhill, and two flights of stairs. Your efforts will pay off when the tour wraps up on Broughton Street, where there are plenty of cafes and pubs to explore nearby!

Tour Producer

Hannah Mackay Tait

1 tour

I'm a qualified Blue Badge Guide and member of the Scottish Tourist Guides Association, and I've been guiding all over Scotland for over 10 years. After doing my degree in French and Theatre Studies at the University of Glasgow, I came home to Edinburgh and decided to become a tour guide, and I've never looked back. Showing people my beautiful country and helping them to discover its stories is truly the best job in the world!

As a lifelong Edinburgh local, I especially love uncovering hidden sides of my city's history. Back in 2020, when no one was able to travel, I started digging into Edinburgh's queer history and women's history, and produced full-length video tours for people to watch at home. I became passionate about showing a different side of the past, and finding new stories to tell in old places - the kind of stories that don't make it into the guide books.

Preview Location

Location 7

View to Old Town

Stop for a moment in front of the big set of columns. This is called the National Monument. It was built in the early 1800s, and it was supposed to be a full replica of the Parthenon as a memorial to the Napoleonic Wars, but they ran out of money and it was never finished. Now... Stop for a moment in front of the big set of columns. This is called the National Monument. It was built in the early 1800s, and it was supposed to be a full replica of the Parthenon as a memorial to the Napoleonic Wars, but they ran out of money and it was never finished. Now it sits like a dramatic ruin on Edinburgh's skyline, and I think most of us agree it looks better this way!

Turn around so the monument is at your back, and take in one of the most iconic views of Edinburgh.

Can you see the ornate clock tower of the Balmoral Hotel, and Edinburgh Castle beyond? Surely this has to be one of the world's most scenic cruising spots!

Historically, cruising could be extremely dangerous. Not only could you face police persecution, but homophobic attacks and robberies were common. The authorities were indifferent or hostile, making victims afraid to come forward. Thankfully, this kind of violence is now much rarer, and taken much more seriously when it happens.

Although places like Calton Hill and other historic cruising spots in the city were often sites of persecution, I think it's important to highlight that they were sites of queer joy too.

Some people have always loved cruising in and of itself, but for others throughout history it was often the only way they could meet other queer people at all. Many people found sex and love and happiness in the kinds of places that William Merrilees targeted, and found ways to forge community despite society's hostility. We must remember the persecution, but we have to remember the happiness too.

Openly queer public spaces only began to appear in Scotland in the mid-1970s, creating official community gathering places for the first time in the years leading up to the decriminalisation of homosexuality in 1981. Sadly, just as more LGBTQ+ people were beginning to emerge from the closet, Edinburgh's queer community was hit with another threat: the HIV/Aids pandemic. I'll tell you more in a moment about how HIV affected Edinburgh and how the community responded.

Let's start walking again. Do you see a cannon down the hill in front of you? Walk towards it and join the path, with the tall round tower on your left. Keep going until you reach the paved area where the paths meet in front of the cannon, and I'll catch up with you there. Read More

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Major Landmarks

Calton Hill
National Monument of Scotland
Edinburgh Playhouse
Museum Collections Centre
Broughton Street
60 Broughton St

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Getting There

Route Overview

VoiceMap tours follow a route from a set starting point. It’s how we give turn-by-turn directions and tell a story greater than the sum of its parts.

Start location
Collective, City Observatory, Edinburgh EH7 5AA, UK
Total distance

2km
Final location
60 Broughton St, Edinburgh EH1 3SA, UK
Distance back to start location

811.5m

Directions to Starting Point

The tour start: Jacob's Ladder, Edinburgh, EH8 8DL

The tour begins on Regent Road at the top of the Jacob's Ladder steps. You'll see an opening in the fence as you face the view of the Old Town, marked with a sign saying "Jacob's Ladder". Lots of Lothian Buses routes from both directions stop nearby outside St Andrew's House, or it's a short walk along Waterloo Place from the east end of Princes Street.

If you're coming from the Old Town, you could go down to Calton Road and come up Jacob's Ladder - but be warned, it has 140 steps! I'd suggest using North Bridge to cross over from the Royal Mile instead, then turning right along Waterloo Place.

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Tips

Places to stop along the way

If you'd like to end the tour and take a break on top of Calton Hill, you can visit the Collective contemporary art centre or stop off at their kiosk for a coffee.

There are plenty of cafes and bars nearby when you finish on Broughton Street, including many of the city's queer venues. Why not pop into The Street at the top of the road for a drink and check out their street art gallery? If you're more of a coffee and cake person, Artisan Roast at 57 Broughton Street has a cosy seating area and some of my favourite coffee in Edinburgh, and Broken Clock at number 27 makes exquisite patisserie.

Broughton Street is full of bars and restaurants, from cocktails and traditional pubs to modern Scottish cuisine. You'll also find some great wee local shops. There are too many to list everything, so take some time to explore when you finish the tour!

Free public toilets and water refill points are available in the St James Quarter shopping centre on Leith Street, around a 10-minute walk from the end point of the tour.

Best time of day

It's best to do this tour during daylight hours, as it involves paths on Calton Hill that might not be well lit after dark. You can do it at any time of year, but I'd suggest waiting for a dry day so you can enjoy the views!

Precautions

Wear comfortable shoes and dress for the weather, whether that means waterproofs or suncream (it does get hot here sometimes!) Bring a bottle of water too, especially if it's a warm day. There are some fairly steep slopes and Edinburgh's pavements can be slippery in wet weather, so be careful and take your time.

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