The Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church on Breitscheidplatz is best understood as two buildings pretending to be one.

The jagged ruin of the original 1890s church, commissioned by Emperor Wilhelm II in honour of his grandfather, was left deliberately standing after Allied bombs struck it on the night of 22 November 1943. Next to it, Egon Eiermann's modern replacement glows from within, with its walls made of 20,000 blue-glazed tiles. Berliners nicknamed the pair "Lipstick and Powder Compact."

The interior is genuinely moving. After the Soviet invasion of Czechoslovakia in 1968, Czech refugees knelt there in the blue light, fearing tanks rolling down the Kurfürstendamm. The ruined tower holds a Cross of Nails salvaged from Coventry Cathedral, bombed by Germany three years before Berlin's own church fell.

VoiceMap's tours use the church to trace West Berlin's 1900's story, from wartime destruction and Cold War anxiety to the 2016 Christmas market attack memorial at its steps.