Aix Walking Tour: History and Renewal in the Medieval Capital of Provence
About the Tour
Aix en Provence wears its wealth quietly, behind courtyard walls and understated facades built on centuries of legal and religious power. On this walking tour, you'll find out how a Roman spa town became Provence's capital of law, education, and old money. You'll also learn why losing that status to Marseille in 1800 shaped the city you see today.
The tour starts at La Rotonde, Aix's grandest fountain, where statues representing Agriculture, Culture, and Justice hint at the city's priorities. From there, you'll walk up Cours Mirabeau, laid out in the 1600s to rival Paris, past the house where Napoleon once addressed the crowds. You'll cross into the Mazarin Quarter, where hidden courtyards and gardens reveal fortunes built on cloth trading, law, and royal favor.
Along the way, you'll hear how Pierre Maurel rose from commoner to count and fathered eighteen children, and how the Hotel de Caumont's owners lived and died amid revolution and tragedy. You'll pass the school where Paul Cezanne and Emile Zola first met as boys, and squares where medieval walls once divided the city into separate communities. The tour ends at Place d'Hotel de Ville, where cafes and restaurants make a fitting spot to rest after ninety minutes of walking.
On this 90-minute tour, you'll have a chance to:
- Step inside the LCL Bank building to see a grand staircase typical of Cours Mirabeau's grandest homes
- Admire the Atlantean statues at Hotel de Maurel de Ponteves, scandalous in their day for their realistic body hair
- Visit Place d'Albertas, a Parisian-style square built specifically to impress rival Aix families
- Explore St Saveurs Cathedral, where Roman columns, Gothic naves, and a King Renee triptych share one building
- Browse the daily market at Place Richelme, held continuously since 1360
- Spot the faded shop sign marking Cezanne's father's hat shop at 55 Cours Mirabeau
By the time you reach Place d'Hotel de Ville, you'll understand exactly how Aix's centuries as a seat of law and learning built the foundations for its modern reinvention as a technology hub.
Tour Producer
Richard Seaward
My name is Richard. I'm British and live in central Aix en Provence, 5 minutes walk from where you start my tour.
I have lived and worked in London, New York and Hong Kong.
After leaving HK and settling in Aix , we took our 3 daughters on a 15 month world back packing trip. Obviously a lot of adventures , but the reason I’m telling you this is , on this trip we took a lot of guided city walks. We found guided walks were the best way to find and get to know the best parts of a city. I also found out what made a good tour and a bad tour, lists of dates when buildings constructed just boring .
So before I started my own tour company Aixwalkingtours.com I spent a long time searching for the interesting Aix story behind the scenes. At the end of your walk you will know how the history of Aix is playing a huge part in what is going on right here and now, you’ll understand and appreciate even more the beautiful city you just walked through. Keep an eye out for me in Aix . I still look like the photo.
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Preview Location
Location 19
Place d’Albertas
It's one of Aix's best-known squares, but it is not what it seems. I mentioned the Alberta's at Pierre Maurels house, his second wife was an Alberta. They were an established Aix family, local magistrates, old money.
They lived in ...
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Major Landmarks
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La Rotonde
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Cours Mirabeau
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Hôtel de Caumont
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Middle School Mignet
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Musée Granet
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Fontaine Moussue
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Tribunal de commerce
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Fontaine Du Roi René
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Place des Prêcheurs
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Cour d'appel - Palais Verdun
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Place d'Albertas
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Place Richelme
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Town Hall of Aix-en-Provence
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Place Forum des Cardeurs
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Musée du Vieil-Aix
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Hôtel de Châteaurenard (vers 1650)
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Musée des Tapisseries
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Paroisse Cathédrale Saint Sauveur Aix-en-Provence
Getting There
Route Overview
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Start locationLa Rotonde, 13100 Aix-en-Provence, France -
Total distance2km -
Final locationPl. de l'Hôtel de ville, 13100 Aix-en-Provence, France -
Distance back to start location495.89m
Directions to Starting Point
We start in front of the Apple Store. It's easy to find as its a very large glass fronted stand alone building. It is at the bottom of the Cour Mirabeau to the left of La Rotonde. It is 50 m from the Office de Tourisme.
Tips
Places to stop along the way
There is a huge choice of bars and restaurants to stop and people watch on our route, particularly along the Cour, Place Richelme and the Place Hotel de Ville. The best cup of coffee in Aix is at Brulerie on the Place Richelme .Aix has a lot of ice cream shops, my childrens favourite is Amarino on the Place d"Hotel de Ville. The best museum is the Hotel de Caumont , which combines a top class Art Gallery with great changing exhibitions , a beautifully preserved and furnished Mansion , and a restaurant/tea room looking out over the restored formal garden . Its open 7 days a week.
Best time of day
Any time of the day is good , but if you want to catch the Markets on Tuesday , Thursday or Saturday they close at 1pm. Most of the fancy clothes shops don't open til 10 am.
Precautions
It is hot in the Summer in the middle of the afternoon. So best times for walks are early morning and late afternoon.
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