Old Kathmandu

Rabi Thapa is a writer, editor and traveller based in Kathmandu and London. He is the author of the non-fiction book Thamel, Dark Star of Kathmandu and the short story compilation Nothing to Declare. He is also the Editor of La.Lit (www.lalitmag.com), the literary magazine from Nepal. See more at rabi-thapa.com.

Walking: If you're within walking distance, it will be simpler (and cheaper) to head to Sohrakhutte (pronounced So-raw-khoot-tey), a busy junction just outside Thamel, on its northern fringe. Nepali street names, where they exist, are sparsely signed, so it's usually easier to ask a local or follow the directions on your phone. 
Approaching from the northeast/east, make your way to the junction at Lainchaur, then go west about half a kilometre along Lekhnath Marg, past Malla Hotel then Amrit Science College (ASCOL) on your left until you come to a steep decline ahead of you, curving down to the right. Stop in front of Shakya Pharma, to your left, and position yourself so you can clearly see the fork at the bottom of the hill. 
Coming down from the north, go past Nayabazaar and head straight up the hill of Sohrakhutte and stop at the top. 
Coming from the south (from within Thamel), just head north till you hit Lekhnath Marg, turn left onto the road and walk till you reach Sohrakhutte.

Taxi: Tell your taxi to head to the top of Sohrakhutte, and make sure he doesn't take you into the maze that is Thamel.

Public transport: Local transport routes are confusing at the best of times, but it will be easiest to hop on a microbus, three-wheeler tempo or bus that goes to Lainchaur. Many of these will approach and keep going past Sohrakhutte, so make sure you ask the conductor or a fellow passenger to point out the stop.