Stepping Back Through Chalcedon: A Kadikoy Walking Tour
About the Tour
This easy walking tour takes you to the heart of Kadıköy’s complex history, where at one time or another Eastern Orthodox Christians, Byzantine leaders, Turkish-born Greeks, local Armenians, the Sultans’ elites, Ottoman insurrectionists, White Russians and young Turks trod the route you’ll follow.
The tour begins in front of the main wharf on the waterfront of Kadıköy, on the Asian side of Istanbul. You’ll hear how the district came out of the shadows of the old town of Sultanahmet on the other side of the city. You'll then enter a maze of fascinating streets. At each stop, you’ll learn the stories of the unique individuals who once lived and worked in Kadıköy, including that of a teenage girl in the 4th century. Along the way, you'll discover specialist shops, one selling chocolate made by the man who introduced cappuccinos to Turkey and the other founded by Haci Bekir, the creator of Turkish Delight.
On this Kadıköy tour, you'll have an opportunity to:
- Take in Armenian and Greek churches from the 1800s, including one located on the site of an earlier church dating to the 5th century
- See examples of Turkish nationalist architecture in streets formerly populated by Russians and Greeks, now frequented by modern-day Turkish students
- Learn about an opera house modelled on the great halls of France and Germany
- Pass by monuments marking the fall of the Ottoman Empire, WWI and the founding of the Turkish Republic
- Visit a cultural centre dedicated to Nazim Hikmet, Turkey’s greatest patriot and communist exile
- Hear about a much-loved statue of a bull, Kadıköy’s unofficial mascot
This tour drops you right into everyday 21st-century life in Kadıköy, played out against a singular backdrop where the past is ever-present. Turkish, Orthodox and other traditions are overlaid with a passion for all things modern, reflected in the churches, shops and other establishments dating from different eras all still in use today.
Tour Producer
Lisa Morrow
Lisa Morrow is a sociologist, travel writer and author of five books: a travel guide Istanbul 50 Unsung Places, her memoir Istanbul Dreams and three essay collections, Inside Out In Istanbul, Exploring Turkish Landscapes and Longing for Istanbul. She's determined to scratch away the everyday surface of ordinary Turkish life to reveal the extraordinary complexities below. To that end she's taught herself Turkish (well, almost), has travelled to all points of the Turkish compass and talks to absolutely everyone from taxi drivers, cleaners, security guards, soldiers and basically anyone she comes across who looks like they have something to say. She shares this and more about her life in Turkey, including how she feels about kelle paça (traditional sheep’s head soup) on her website Inside Out in Istanbul. It began as a personal blog in 2013 and has evolved into a window on what's it's like to live in Istanbul plus provides lots of handy tips, tricks and hacks to help you visit destinations around the country.
Preview Location
How VoiceMap Works
Major Landmarks
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Kadıköy Haldun Taner Sahnesi
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Kadikoy Square
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Tarih Edebiyat Sanat Kütüphanesi (TESAK)
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Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir
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Baylan
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Armenian Church of Surp Takavor
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Greek Orthodox Church of Ayia Efimia
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Merak Eden Cocuk Ilkokulu ve Anaokulu
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Viktor Levi Şarap Evi
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Köçeoğlu Hamamı Kemer Ve Duvar Kalıntısı
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Kadıköy Rum Ortodoks Metropolitliği
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Süreyya Opera House
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Nâzım Hikmet Kültür Merkezi
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Kadikoy Bull Statue
Getting There
Route Overview
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Total distance3km -
Distance back to start location534.68m
Directions to Starting Point
We'll start at Kadıköy iskelesi, or Kadikoy Pier. There are several wharves in Kadikoy, but the one you want is the largest, and currently serves Eminonu and Karakoy (on the European side of the city). The main Kadikoy wharf terminal is where you’ll disembark if you travel on one of the large ferries from either of those locations. Once you exit the wharf look for the Ece Bufe (a small fast food outlet) on one side of the terminal, to confirm you’re in the right place.
Tips
Places to stop along the way
I recommend you stop at Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir for a Turkish coffee and a traditional sweet. My favourite is the badem ezmesi, marzipan in wickedly good flavours. If you can fit it in, finish your walk around dinner time and head back to Viktor Levi Wine House for a great meal in a beautiful setting.
Best time of day
You can do this walk at any time of day but in summer it’s best to go in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the heat of the day. If you plan to enter the sweet shops they usually open around 8am in the morning and close around 8pm, seven days a week. The churches are only open to the public on Sundays. Weekend crowds can be quite intense, especially if there’s a football match on, so check with your hotel first.
Precautions
Most places in Istanbul are very crowded and Kadikoy is no exception. Luckily Istanbul is relatively free of pickpockets, but you should take care of your belongings nonetheless, especially when on trams, the metro or waiting to board the ferries. Football matches and protests are usually accompanied by a heavy police presence which can seem alarming. However, they’re generally focused on supervising the event at hand.
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