‘The Smoke That Thunders’: A Guide to Zambia’s Victoria Falls
About the Tour
One of nature’s greatest spectacles is the raw power of Victoria Falls. On this walking tour, you’ll approach the falls from the Zambian side, and follow well-maintained paths through a unique rainforest ecosystem to view the Eastern Cataract from various vantage points.
The tour starts at the ticket office of the Victoria Falls World Heritage Site in Livingstone. As you make your way to the falls, I’ll share stories about David Livingstone, how he brought these falls to the world’s attention in 1855, and the adventurers who followed in his footsteps. You’ll cross the famous Knife Edge Bridge where, depending on water levels, you might feel the full force of nature as spray drenches you from head to toe.
From Danger Point, you’ll gaze across Livingstone Island where the explorer first viewed this natural wonder. For the more adventurous, an optional descent to the Boiling Pot offers a close-up encounter with the churning waters where the Eastern and Western Cataracts meet. The steep 100-meter climb back up requires reasonable fitness but will reward you with unparalleled perspectives of the gorge system.
You’ll continue upstream for tranquil views of the Zambezi before its dramatic plunge, and then venture towards the iconic Victoria Falls Bridge where the tour ends. At the bridge, you’ll have a choice to explore the area or head back to the park’s entrance while listening to a bonus track about Livingstone Island.
Along the way, you’ll have a chance to:
- Stand at the edge of the Eastern Cataract, where water plunges 101 meters into the narrow chasm below
- Discover the fascinating history of Victoria Falls Bridge, which brought tourists by rail to this remote wonder in 1904
- Observe unique plant species in the rainforest, including blood lilies, red milkwoods, and jackal berries
- Learn about the geological forces that created this extraordinary formation over 200,000 years ago
- Visit the farthest viewpoint on the Zambian side and understand why local people called it Mosi-oa-Tunya – “the smoke that thunders”
- Enjoy stunning rainbow-tinted views from upstream vantage points, especially in morning and late afternoon light
By the end of this two-hour journey (which is three hours if you descend to the Boiling Pot) you’ll have had an unforgettable experience exploring Victoria Falls, where every viewpoint offers a new perspective on the natural phenomenon that’s captivated travelers for generations.
As Percy Clark, the first photographer at the Falls wrote: “I have seen the Falls a thousand times by day and night, but I never tire of seeing them. The fascination dwells.“
Tour Producer
Jonathan Waters
Jonathan Waters is a historian and author of nearly a dozen books focusing on central Africa, that include Harare: Urban Evolution (published in 2015), Kariba: Legacy of a Vision (2020), Tree Tales of Zimbabwe (2021), A Glass Half Full (2022), which is a history of Zimbabwe’s wine industry, Cheers: A History of Beer in Zimbabwe (2023), Victoria Falls: The Grandest View of God’s Earth (2023), Thomas Baines: The Victoria Falls. A Million Beauties (2024) and Tree Tales of Zimbabwe Volume II (2024). He was born in Harare in 1969 and attended Blakiston and Prince Edward schools. He went to Rhodes University, where he read for a BA in Journalism and Economics. After various stints in journalism around the world, he returned to Zimbabwe in 2001. Other interests include genealogical research, historical maps, rock art, and the Portuguese in south-east Africa in the 16th and 17th centuries. See www.newzanj.com
Preview Location
Location 4
Eastern Cataract Main View
However, if you are in the high-water season, you won’t be seeing very much but a sheet of water, and in the low water peri... Read More
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Major Landmarks
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National Heritage Conversation Commission Victoria Falls World Heritage Dite
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Northern Rhodesian Great War Memorial
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Livingstone’s Statue
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Knife Edge Bridge
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Gorilla Head ViewPoint
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Vctoria Falls Zambian Side
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Victoria Falls Bridge ViewPoint
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Victoria Falls Bridge ViewPoint
Getting There
Route Overview
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Start location3VC7+H5M, Mosi - Oa - Tunya Road, Livingstone, Zambia -
Total distance3km -
Final locationT1, Zambia -
Distance back to start location32.98m
Directions to Starting Point
The tour starts from outside the ticket office on the main highway (T1) to Livingstone. There is a car park for those with a vehicle.
Tips
Places to stop along the way
There is a kiosk in the rainforest where you can buy drinks and snacks, but no dining experience as such. For breakfast, or tea or coffee, go to Kubu Cafe, next to Fire Station on Kabompo Rd, just off the main Mosi-oa-Tunya highway (T1)
Best time of day
The best time is when the park opens in the morning, usually around 06.30hrs in winter (May to August) and 06.00 in the summer months. This way you will avoid the flood of tourists later in the day, and get a dawn view across the Falls. The alternative is late afternoon. Rainbows are at their best when the sun is higher.
Precautions
Watch out for wild animals. Do not try and feed them. Baboons are especially aggressive if you are holding food.
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