Palaces, Pagodas, Tombs, and Train Tracks: A History Tour of Hidden Huế
About the Tour
Most visitors overlook Vietnam's former imperial capital, but this provincial city has a momentous story to tell. Huế is where the Nguyễn Dynasty established an opulent capital, the French mounted a campaign of colonial manipulation, and the Americans triggered a battle that would shock the world.
In this tour travel, writer Joshua Zukas tells Huế's story - but not through the popular sights. Instead, the tour moves through lesser-known neighborhoods, passing a centuries-old pagoda, the local train street, a labyrinthine market, a riverside garden house, a retro church, an army blockhouse and a forgotten tomb. At each stop, which you're likely to have all to yourself, a chapter of Huế's complex story unfolds before your eyes.
Along the way, you’ll have a chance to:
- Study Huế’s evolution from grand imperial capital to devastating war zone to neglected backwater to prosperous provincial city
- Discover the Art Deco elegance of La Residence, once home to French colonial officials who controlled Vietnam’s puppet emperors and now a luxury hotel
- Explore the 17th-century Báo Quốc Pagoda, where you’ll see evidence that the Nguyễn were influential lords centuries before becoming emperors
- Walk along Huế’s ”train street” - without another tourist in sight (unlike Hanoi's train street).
- Pass a traditional garden house, with its private river wharf and blend of Vietnamese and European architectural styles
- Explore Bến Ngự Market, where vendors sell everything from fresh produce to household goods - but no tourist trinkets
- Understand how the brutal 1968 Battle of Hue shaped the city’s landscape and memory
- Sip Vietnamese coffee at a hidden cafe and tuck into typical Huế dishes at a local restaurant
- Conclude at Dục Đức Tomb, dedicated to an emperor who ruled for only three days before (probably) starving to death
By the end of this 75-minute tour, you’ll have a sense of the link between Vietnam’s imperial past and Huế’s enduring cultural identity. It’s perfect for history enthusiasts seeking deeper insights beyond the standard tourist sights in a city that remains slower-paced and more traditional than its metropolitan counterparts.
Tour Producer
Joshua Zukas
I value depth over breadth, which is why I write almost exclusively about Vietnam—a country I’ve called home for more than a decade.
Why Vietnam? Because I love a good story, and Vietnam is teeming with them. Some are mythological, others grounded in historical fact, but most inhabit that compelling grey space in between. I draw on these narratives whenever possible in my work, whether writing guidebooks for Lonely Planet, Fodor’s and Hardie Grant, or features for The Economist, Wallpaper, Business Insider, The Michelin Guide and others. I’m also the author of Bradt’s Vietnam, the most in-depth guide to the country currently on the market. I hold a BA in Southeast Asian Studies, specialising in Vietnam, and an MSc in Sustainable Tourism.
My VoiceMap walking tours offer more than an introduction to Vietnam’s complex history. They bring to life the stories hiding in plain sight, lead you down alleyways you might otherwise pass by, and introduce you to street food spots that most tourists never find.
Preview Location
Location 13
Turn right down Hue's train street
How VoiceMap Works
Major Landmarks
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Azerai La Residence, Hue
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Báo Quốc Temple
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Ben Ngu Market
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Lạc Tịnh Viên
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Ben Ngu Parish Church - Sacred Heart Congregation, Hue
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Phu Cam Cathedral
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Teo Restaurant
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Tomb of Dục Đức
Getting There
Route Overview
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Start locationĐiện Biên Phủ, Vĩnh Ninh, Huế, Thành phố Huế, Vietnam -
Total distance3km -
Final locationAn Cựu, Thuận Hóa, Hue City, Vietnam -
Distance back to start location2km
Directions to Starting Point
This tour begins at the southern end of Điện Biên Phủ Street, close to La Residence Hotel and next to the Perfume River. If you can see the Vietnamese flag flying high on the other side of the water, you're in the right place.
Tips
Places to stop along the way
Several stops along the way provide opportunities to rest and recuperate, including a local rice restaurant serving authentic Hue cuisine that's completely off the tourist trail. Note that the restaurant opens at 10am and stays open for most of the day.
Best time of day
It depends on the weather, but keep in mind that the last stop - Dục Đức Tomb - usually closes at around 5pm. In the cooler rainy season (October-February), the tour is good at any time of the day (but bring an umbrella). In the very hot dry(er) season, the morning is best, but note that the restaurant only opens at around 10am.
Precautions
The 2-mile route follows quiet residential streets with occasional short climbs and train track crossings. While mostly flat, the journey includes sections where you'll share the road with local traffic. Stay close to the side of the road and keep your wits about you at all times when sidewalks aren't available. Important: when crossing streets, look out for traffic coming in all directions. You may wish to pause the tour when crossing streets at very busy times so you can focus on the traffic!
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