City of Caliphs: A Guide to Córdoba’s Layered History

Córdoba’s long and rich history lives on in its labyrinth of streets and, although people have occupied this city for about 7,000 years, its layout has hardly changed since Medieval times. It’s UNESCO-listed for its beautiful and fascinating historic centre, and its exuberant Festival de los Patios Cordobeses, held annually in May. On this walking tour, I’ll tell you about the history that unfolded on these winding streets and picturesque patios, in what was once by far the largest city in Western Europe.

The tour starts at the Mirador Mezquita de Córdoba, a viewpoint overlooking the stunning Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba. You’ll enter the old town through Puerta del Puente, the old city gate, after crossing the Roman Bridge of Córdoba. As you wind your way through the maze of medieval streets, you’ll be immersed in the city’s richly interwoven Roman, Muslim, Christian and Jewish heritage. You’ll see several important structures and lesser-known treasures including the Alcazar of the Christian Monarchs (an ancient fortress), the Baños del Alcázar Califal (the Caliphal Baths), and the Córdoba Synagogue. In the middle of the tour, you’ll briefly step into the modern city before returning to the charming alleys of the Jewish Quarter. After walking along the famous flower-filled Patios Cordobeses, you’ll wrap up the tour in front of the Puerta de Sevilla.

Along the way, you’ll:

• Find out how Córdoba first rose to prominence under the Roman Empire, reaching a peak in the 900s, when it was the Caliphate of Córdoba’s capital
• See remnants of Córdoba’s Roman past at the Museo Arqueológico de Córdoba (the Archaeological Museum and Roman Temple)
• Trace the expansion of the Great Mosque over the years and its subsequent conversion into a cathedral, and admire the Bell Tower from the Calleja de las Flores and the Patio de los Naranjos (Orange Tree Courtyard)
• Learn about Córdoba’s local culture, including its festivals and traditions, while you explore the labyrinthine streets of the old bazaar and Jewish Quarter
• Get recommendations on where to stop for a glass of Montilla-Moriles wine or a hearty meal in a historic taberna
• Admire award-winning Córdoban patios and balconies, beautifully decorated with plants and flowers
• Experience the hustle and bustle around Plaza de las Tendillas, visit the food market on Plaza de la Corredera, and check out Córdoba’s traditional handicrafts, including silver jewellery and leather goods
• Hear about famous Córdobans ranging from the Roman writer and politician Seneca and the Islamic philosopher Averroes, to the bullfighter Manolete and the flamenco guitar-maker Manuel Reyes

On this Córdoba tour, you’ll also discover:

• What the original builders of the Great Mosque got badly wrong
• The connection between the Plaza del Potro and Cervantes’ Don Quixote
• What’s special about the clock in Plaza de las Tendillas
• Why you want to be careful about ordering a half glass of wine
• What brought Tony Blair to Córdoba in the late 1990s

By the end of this three-hour tour, you’ll have a better appreciation for how the city’s Roman, Muslim, Christian and Jewish inhabitants have all helped to shape the city’s architecture, vibrant culture, and unique Córdoban flavour.