The Wicked City: Vice, Crime and Gangsters in Nineteenth-Century Chicago
About the Tour
Chicago's storied underworld didn't begin with Al Capone—it was woven into the city's fabric from its earliest days. On this captivating walking tour through the northern Loop, you'll discover the darker side of 19th-century Chicago, from lawless vice districts to corrupt politicians and early crime bosses. Follow the footsteps of gamblers, gangster predecessors, and saloonkeepers who shaped the city's notorious reputation.
The tour starts at the DuSable Bridge, formerly known as the Michigan Avenue Bridge, where Chicago's first settlement began. You'll walk across the river and into the heart of the old vice districts, including the infamous Sands
shantytown where the city's earliest brothels and gambling dens flourished. Along the way, you'll trace the development of Chicago's criminal underworld from its rough-and-tumble frontier beginnings through the emergence of organized crime.
You'll hear about the violent 1855 Lager Beer Riot when German immigrants protested anti-alcohol laws, and explore the notorious hangouts of crime bosses like Sure Thing
Michael McDonald, whose gambling empire operated with impunity. The tour ends at the site of Chicago's devastating 1857 fire—a disaster started by an unnamed prostitute that preceded the more famous Great Chicago Fire of 1871.
On this 90-minute journey through Chicago's wicked past, you'll have a chance to:
- Walk through the former
Kilgubbin
shantytown where generations of criminals and future political bosses got their start - Learn how prostitution flourished along South Water Street, where farmers came to sell their grain and spend their profits
- Visit the location of the Silver Dollar Saloon, where corrupt alderman
Bathhouse
Coughlin conducted city business - Explore
The Store,
the gambling den that functioned as Chicago's unofficial city hall under crime boss Michael McDonald - Take a pitstop at one of Chicago's classics - The Billy Goat tavern
- See the spot where the Great Chicago Fire jumped the river, nearly destroying the entire city
- Hear scandalous stories from a recently discovered diary documenting Chicago's vibrant 19th-century gay community
- Stand where the 1857 fire began, when an angry prostitute set her bed aflame after a customer refused to pay
Discover the colorful characters and notorious places that earned Chicago its reputation as the wickedest city in the United States.
This walk through history reveals how vice, corruption, and crime shaped the city we know today.
Tour Producer
Richard Junger
Professor, urban historian and former broadcast journalist. Just epublished is my "Real, True Backstories of Old Chicago: As told Day by Day from 1673 to 1925". In it I recount hundreds of the same kinds of Chicago stories as heard in my audio tours, some short and some longer.
Right now only available as an Amazon Kindle ebook (just search for "Backstories of Old Chicago") but a print edition is forthcoming. Meanwhile watch for me on Chicago's streets. I'm the guy who's always asking "guess what happened here?" as I walk with friends.
Preview Location
Location 23
Drink, the Devil's Crowbar
On March 13, 1877, a Mrs. Charlotte Fallon sued her husband’s saloon keeper for making him into an alcoholic over the past four years. The saloon keeper, James Harris, served not far from our last location. Harris denied t... Read More
How VoiceMap Works
Major Landmarks
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DuSable Bridge
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Billy Goat Tavern (The Original)
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Hatch House Site
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Lager Beer Riot Site
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"The Store" Casino Site
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The Picasso
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Marina City Goldberg
Getting There
Route Overview
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Start location333 Michigan Ave, Chicago, IL 60601, USA -
Total distance4km -
Final locationE Lower Wacker Dr, Chicago, IL 60601, USA -
Distance back to start location73.78m
Directions to Starting Point
The tour starts at 99 Chicago Riverwalk, Chicago, IL 60601, USA.
CTA "L" lines -- get off at State/Lake station and walk north and east to Michigan and Wacker.
CTA bus -- #19 bus runs around the Loop and stops near Michigan and Wacker and the #6 bus travels north/south on Michigan from the museums.
Millennium Station -- the CTA Metra Electric lines and the Indiana South Shore Railway stop there. Just go up to street level and walk north four blocks on Michigan.
Metra Ogilvie and Union stations are longer walks. Consider the "L" or a CTA bus
Parking garages -- available but pricey. It may save to use mass transit. One of the cheaper garages is under Millennium Park at 5 S. Columbus Drive. Walk north on Michigan Avenue to the bridge.
Tips
Places to stop along the way
The Billy Goat Tavern is renown in Chicago legend and lore and from an old John Belushi Saturday Night Live skit. Just know your order because the cooks get testy. And remember, it's Coke or diet,
no Pepsi. During the tour you can practice your cheezborger
if you want to order like a local.
There are many other nice restaurants along the route, including on Kinzie and Wacker. The Merchandise Mart has a larger food court and shopping on the first and second floors that are open business hours Monday through Fridays only. And there is a McDonald's at the southern terminus of the route, just about half way, if you're looking for a timely place to rest and refresh.
Best time of day
Traffic and traffic noise are worse mornings 7 to 9:30 and afternoons 4 to 6:30 local time. Traffic and noise are less of a problem on weekends. Chicago is the windy city
and nearby cold Lake Michigan winds whip through the building canyons in the late fall, winter, and early spring. Check the weather forecast those times of the year.
Precautions
Chicago's big buildings can do things to GPS signals. If the audio stops for an extended period of time, use the map on your smartphone to get back/stay on the route. When you move past the big buildings use the fast forward button to catch up to your location or find a spot to sit and listen to the stories you missed all at one time.
As mentioned in the tour, watch out for right turns on red lights and motorists speeding through red lights. Tour is better during daylight hours, but downtown Chicago is a safe city.
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